Mods.

As with many others, I made some modifications. The perk of making our own garments is that we can tailor them to our own needs.

Better fitting back and shoulders

I moved 6 stitches on each side of the back to the sleeves, and increased at the front every RS row 6 times.

I intended to follow the mod from kategafnonosborn’s Rocky Coast Cardigan, but I misread it and increased every RS row instead. This made for a round front corner that I currently like, but I reserve the right to change my mind when I work the collar. Here are her original instructions: “Worked an increase on each end of the fronts every 6 rows until each front had an additional 6 sts – or one cable repeat. This added an additional inch and a half to each side.”

I also added the wider sleeve and yoke increases listed in the errata. Somehow my stitch count didn’t match up so I only increased by 10 sts at the underarm.

Curvy Girl Hips

I’ve accepted that boxy shapes don’t work on my body. My wide hips don’t tolerate it. I wanted to add about 4 – 6 inches for the hips.

When joining the body after putting the sleeves on holders, I added stitch markers on each edge of the back piece and worked 8 inches on the body ending with row 2 of the stitch pattern.

The plan is to continue working the two front and sides in pattern while switching to double ribbing on the back between the stitch markers:

Next Row (pattern row 3): K to stitch marker, slip marker, P2, K2 to last two stitches before marker, P2. Slip marker, K to end.

Work as established for two pattern repeats (or desired height of waist shaping) ending with pattern row 2.

Next row (pattern row 3): Knit to stitch marker. Slip marker. kfb, k4 to last stitch before stitch marker, kfb. Slip marker, knit to end. (18 stitches increased).

Continue in pattern until desired body length has been reached.

Sleeves

Pick up 14 stitches, from the underarm placing beginning of round marker at the center of these stitches.
Beginning with pattern row 7, knit as established for 3 inches.
Work Decrease round every 4 rounds (cable rounds), 19 times.

Work to 16 inches from underarm.
Work 20 rounds of ribbing.
Bind off loosely.

My Favorite Bind Off

I apparently use a modified Decrease Bind Off method. I love how it is a stretchy bind off that is loose enough for sleeves, collars and sock legs without flaring out as so many stretchy bind-offs do.

To start:
Work the first stitch.

If next stitch on the left needle is a purl:
P1, Slip left needle through the two stitches on the right needle to the front, P2tog.

If next stitch on the left needle is a knit:
K1, Slip left needle through the two stitches on the right needle to the back, K2tog twice. (one for each purl stitch in double ribbing)

If working flat, repeat to end.

If working in the round, repeat to last stitch. Work my favorite version of TECHKnitting’s binding off circular knits.

10-6-2015 – Swatching

This yarn is knitting up really tightly, but it makes gauge, and is very close to the yardage/weight ratio of the original yarn. I’m hoping this means it will be a very durable, long lasting sweater that will put up with becoming a winter staple to my wardrobe.

10-12-2015 – Read Yoke Instructions Carefully

So, I got to the end of the yoke, put the sleeves on holders, and started the body. I checked the sleeve stitch count, and my heart stopped. 20 stitches short?!

I reread the instructions… and noticed something I hadn’t noticed before. I felt the sinking of my stomach that happens right before I pull the needles out of my work, and rip back, I did. Four inches.

When you’re reading the yoke instructions, there is a part labeled “Check to divide for body and sleeves”. These instructions are repeated twice; once before Yoke Set C and once after the Final Increases section, depending on where your sizing needs the next set of instructions. In my case (larger sizes), this happens AFTER Yoke Set D and the Final Increases on the following page.

Remember, pets, read all the yoke instructions AND MAP THEM OUT before you make a foolish mistake (which the designer did a wonderful job of emphasizing. I was just not thinking clearly at the time), and are required to rip back four, stomach sinking, inches.

10-24-2015 – Mods for my pear shape

Decrease to Waist Section:
Decrease Round every 4th round 8 times. (238 sts)

Increase To Hips Section:
Increase Round every 3rd round 17 times. Knit until side seam is 17 inches long and ending after a twist round. (306 sts)

Sleeves:
knit an extra two twists before sleeve edging.

05-14-2016 – Project Retrospective

I’m really not comfortable with the collar. The tighter gauge of the sweater means it didn’t relax across my shoulders like it was supposed to, so my collar basically stands up on it’s own and is resting against my throat, which I hate. I’m going to look at the pattern, and my options and determine how to deepen the collar.

I would have liked a deeper shirt tail. There was plenty of room to add more short rows. If I had to do it over, I’d add another few extra.

Planned Modifications

Lengthen by 2 inches.

Fitted Sleeve

For a more fitted sleeve, cast on for size 41 on the sleeve pattern for size 55, and increase 9 stitches as you would for size 43 working first increase round one round prior (fourth repeat of round 3 on sleeve chart A).

Work increase round every 4th round (end of rounds 3, 7 and 11 on sleeve chart B) 18 times (97 sts on needles), then every 6th round 8 times (113 sts on needles), knit one more inch, then work the armhole shaping for size 55.

04-24-2016

Ray loved my first attempt so much that I’m knitting them again. That and I need something more prtable than a large sweater for those shorter waiting times.